FlashForge Creator Pro Accelerometer Install

 

COMPATIBILITY:
FlashForge Creator Pro (any year)
FlashForge Creator X (very similar precursor to the Creator Pro, so probably also works)
PowerSpec 3D Pro Printer (MicroCenter's rebranded version of the Creator Pro)
MakerBot Replicator 1 Dual
QIDI Tech 1
Wanhao Duplicator 4s
CTC Bizer
Monoprice Architect

NOTE: This tutorial assumes you've installed an aftermarket control board (such as an SKR Mini E3 v3), and Klipper on your printer. It also assumes you're not using the right toolhead. I'll eventually come out with a better design that does not require removing the heatsink and fan on that side.

TOOLS:
Silicone 22g wire (for flexible, color coded, wiring)
Dupont .1" female pin connectors (for connecting to the Pi)
ENGINEER PA-09 crimpers (for crimping the connectors on the wires)
ENGINEER PA-14 strippers (for stripping the wires)
20 JST XH2.54mm female plugs and metal crimps (for connecting to the accelerometer)
ADXL345 accelerometer (for measuring resonances. Make sure the one you get lists "SPI" as a connection method so it will be fast enough for our application)

One of the main benefits of running Klipper, in my opinion, is resonance tuning. With resonance tuning, you can print much faster than you normally would, while compensating for the "echo" effect that the machine vibrations will cause in your parts at that speed.

Since the FlashForge Creator Pro has a slow moving Z axis that probably won't cause any quality issues, I'm not going to be measuring that.

If you followed my tutorial on installing Klipper and rewiring the FFCP, you should still have plenty of male and female JST XH2.54 connectors left. I used 2 male 3-pin connectors, and soldered them onto the chip side of the accelerometer board. One of the connectors should be inserted into "SDO", "SDA", and "SCL", and the other one should be in "GND", "VCC", and "CS". The middle 2 points are unused in this application.

I attached the accelerometer by screwing it onto the right toolhead with one of the allen screws on the bottom of the fan, but keeping the extruder motor mounted. I'm planning on entirely removing that extruder motor eventually and printing something to trigger the X and Y endstops while saving weight. For now, we need the ability to mount the accelerometer, and the stepper motor provides threads. No bracket really needed in this case.

To temporarily do the wiring, just get 6 strands of 22 gauge silicone wire and terminate one end with the matching JST connectors to connect to the accelerometer. You need about 2 feet of wire length, but use the amount that can reach your Pi and let you work comfortably with a little slack. Then you can terminate the other end of the wire with .1" molex connectors to make connection to the Pi easy and removable.

As far as this article, it's only meant to focus on the installation procedure. For information on how to run tests, follow these instructions.